In Conversation with Julianna Josephine of JJ LOVES U
Photographer: Eight Gregorio
I first discovered Julianna’s designs last winter and was immediately captivated. Her pieces were so striking that I ended up purchasing the fencing top myself, and it’s become one of my most complimented pieces.
Her influences, ranging from Victorian-era fashion to the collections at the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore, come through clearly in her craftsmanship. Every design reflects her passion, her artistry, and her commitment to sustainability.
Learn what inspires Julianna of JJ LOVES U and what truly makes her creative vision come alive.
-Eisley
Introduce yourself and your brand!
My name is Julianna and I am the creator and designer of the brand Julianna Josephine. I design womenswear inspired by historical garments and sportswear in playful and romantic silhouettes. I started the brand under the name JJ LOVES U in 2022, recycling vintage and secondhand textiles into clothing and accessories. In 2023, with my first runway collection Enchanted Forest, the brand became Julianna Josephine where I began making custom garments for clients in my small studio. Since the release of my collection School Spirits in 2024 I have been busy making-to-order my signature design, the “Fencing Top”.
What is your design process?
I usually start from a rudimentary sketch which I just use to remember the idea. I do a lot of my editing in the draping process and in the draft construction. Once a sample is made I will wear it in all kinds of different ways to see how I might want to alter or make a new design out of it. Swatching fabrics and trim together helps to bring color, patterns, and decoration into the design. I love dyeing buttons and trim so I am always customizing every part of the garment.
How did you come up with the idea for the iconic fencing top?
I had been studying a lot of sports uniforms from the late 1800s through the early 1900s. One of my favorite uniforms is the fencing jacket which has buttons going up the side of the chest. Around the same time I was rediscovering a pair of antique german bloomers that belong to my mom. The bloomers have a drop seat in the back for using the bathroom - which also resembles the front of sailor pants. At some point the idea came to me and i scribbled a rough concept into my phone. An hour later I was draping the muslin on my dressform. On July 5th, 2024 I had completed my first sample. The first draft took 4 full days because I’d decided to hand stitch all 17 buttonholes. The Fencing Top guided the collection’s theme of students wearing school uniforms and customizing them in their own way. Unbuttoning the Fencing Top feels rebellious and vulnerable in an otherwise secure and restrictive style.
What period of history are you most inspired by?
My favorite periods of fashion history are the 1960s-70s and the late 1800s. Bill Gibb and Rudi Gernreich are two of my favorite designers from the 60s and 70s. Bill Gibb designed some of the most beautiful fantastical and folkloric looking dresses in wild patterns and knits. I love the entirely different style Rudi Gernreich was creating with very modern, liberating, and futuristic looks. A lot of my work is very inspired by Victorian fashion. I love the feminine and exaggerated curves created in the back and waist with tailored jackets and bustles. I also love the curves in the ankles created by the dramatic tight laced boots.
How does your view on sustainability inform your business?
Sustainability plays a big role in how I function as a brand. I have a degree in Environmental Studies so when I shifted career paths to fashion design, I was in the mindset of reducing waste and having a lower impact on the environment. The main way I try to reduce waste is by making the majority of my pieces to order. That way I can buy only the fabric that I need and make only what people actually want. When I make a runway collection I tend to use a lot of vintage and secondhand materials, which has the benefit of making garments more unique (but the downfall of making the garments much harder to replicate). On the human side of sustainability I think a lot more about the lifetime of the garment. The goal is to create a piece that will last in someone’s closet because it is made to fit them, is made well, and made with quality materials. My ultimate dream would be to have someone pass one of my designs down in their family as an heirloom.
Where do you see the brand in 5 years?
My biggest goal for the near future is to learn how to make shoes and hats. I would really love to explore shoe design especially because a lot of my vision for fashion revolves around cool shoes. I want to keep the brand as a small operation and would love to have a small team to help with production (and things like graphics and social media which I struggle with). I currently have an assistant Emily who comes to help me sew one day a week which has been a big help this year. My biggest accomplishment in 2025 was making an outfit for actress Hazel Doupe to wear to the BAFTA television awards. I would really love to design more imaginative and large-scale pieces for events and performances.
What are your references/where do you go to feel inspired?
I love to watch movies so I am always impacted by good costumes or visual storytelling. When I think back on my favorite movies I am always remembering the best dress or outfit. To feel inspired I go to The Walters Art Museum in Baltimore. I can spend hours there looking at ancient jewelry, Renaissance paintings, Medieval paintings, religious relics, armor, and insects.
What is your favorite fabric to work with?
I love sewing with cotton twill and cotton jersey. I use twill a lot in my work because of how comfortable, crisp, and durable it is. And there’s just something satisfying about wearing something made of thick cotton jersey.
What advice would you give to a young designer?
Always try to learn something new and improve your handiwork in each project. Really earning how to sew means that you can best execute your designs. And customers will keep coming back when your pieces are made well. You don’t need to go to school but you should always seek to learn. Books and practice are the best.
What are things about you (outside of designing) that you are proud of?
Recently I got into making Focaccia, which I really enjoy. The first handful of times I spent trying to perfect the baking method and now I think it is really good. My favorite way to dress it is coating the top with black and white sesame seeds. Fresh out of the oven with butter and honey is the best!!!!!
What is one meal that you couldn’t live without?
Malai Kofta. I have that on my birthday and at least twice a month.
Who are a few darlings in your life?
Aszana, my kindergarten bestie who is also a fashion designer (@aszanastudio on instagram). We can talk about sewing and gossip for hourssss. Emily, my funny sewing assistant who has become a close good friend. And Zane, my boyfriend who claims his encouragement is the reason I started my brand. I can’t remember if that is true ;)
